Stop a Dripping Faucet Yourself

A step-by-step weekend fix under $10. No plumber required for 80-90% of drips.

That drip isn't just annoying. A single leaking faucet can waste up to 3,000 gallons a year. The good news: 80-90% of faucet leaks come from one worn part, a washer, O-ring, or cartridge. Parts run $5-20, and most repairs take 30-60 minutes with tools you probably already own.

Step 1: Figure out which faucet you have

The fix depends on the type. Look under the handle or check your manual:

• Compression (two handles, one hot, one cold): Usually the culprit — a worn rubber washer
• Cartridge (single or double handle, smooth turn): A worn cartridge, needs full replacement
• Ball (single handle, moves in all directions): A worn ball, seats, or springs
• Ceramic disc (single handle, feels stiff): A worn cylinder, usually needs full replacement

Step 2: Shut off the water and prep your workspace

1. Turn off the shut-off valves under the sink

   Turn clockwise until they stop. No valves under the sink? You'll need to shut off the main water valve for the house instead.

2. Open the faucet to bleed the line

   This releases remaining water and pressure so nothing sprays when you start disassembling.

3. Plug the drain

   Lay a towel over it or use a stopper — losing a tiny screw down the drain turns a 30-minute job into a much longer one.

Step 3: Disassemble, identify, and replace the worn part

1. Remove the handle

   Pop off the decorative cap with a flathead screwdriver, then unscrew the handle screw underneath. Some ball-style handles use a set screw and a small Allen wrench instead.

2. Pull the stem, cartridge, or ball

   Compression faucets unscrew a brass stem. Cartridges pull straight out after removing a retaining clip or nut. Take a photo of the order everything comes out in. You'll thank yourself at reassembly.

3. Inspect and match the part

   Look for cracked O-rings, hardened washers, or mineral buildup on the valve seat. Bring the actual worn part to the hardware store rather than guessing a size. It's the single biggest time-saver in this whole project.

4. Clean the valve seat before reassembling

   Soak the area in white vinegar for a few minutes to dissolve mineral deposits, then wipe clean. A new washer seated against a corroded surface will still leak.

5. Install the new part and reassemble in reverse order

   Don't overtighten — snug is enough. Over-tightening is what wears out the next washer prematurely.

Step 4: Turn the water back on slowly

Open the shut-off valves gradually rather than all at once. A sudden rush of pressure can dislodge new parts before they've seated properly. Run the water for a minute to clear any debris, then check for drips at the spout, handle, and base.

When to call a plumber instead

If the faucet is over 15 years old with visible corrosion inside the body, or the repair would cost more than 30% of a new fixture, replacement is the better move than another round of parts. A cracked faucet body or stripped threads also won't be solved by swapping washers — that's a sign to stop and call a professional.